Alpine Climbing recommended route

Mognola Rock Climbing

Alpine Climbing · Ascona-Locarno
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  • Mognola Rock Climbing
    Mognola Rock Climbing
    Photo: Lukino Ramelli
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    Breath-taking alpine terrain with outstanding rock, ideal for summer climbing. Overhanging rock, vertical walls, and technical slabs offer something fun for climbers of all levels. Climbing on this uniquely colored rock is possible even on the hottest summer days. The rock has pink-orange shades and the color varies depending on the time of day and light conditions.

    Video: https://vimeo.com/505736919  

    Distance 8.9 km
    1:30 h
    800 m
    800 m
    2,079 m
    1,279 m
    The approach to the lake from Alpe Vacarisc is one hour. The sectors are then scattered along the path that leads from Lake Mognola to the ancient aqueduct carved into the rock.

    The difficulty of the sectors varies from 5a to 8a. The attached graphics show the difficulties in each sector.

    In order to arrive at the sectors at the end of the Canà Valley, take the path towards the Corte del Sasso past the aqueduct. Around the lake, and near some sectors, it is possible to camp overnight with a tent.

    Please respect the surrounding nature and wildlife. Please pack out your waste.

    Crag A - Sassina-Basso

    Two routes with an amazing view of the lake at the top.

    Crag B - Zoo Alpino

    Stunning wall located directly on the trail, that leads to the aqueduct. Physical starts on short overhanging sections, leading into technical moves on vertical rock.

    Crag C - Cocktail Bar-Sx

    Short routes but with decidedly technical and not obvious passages.

    Crag C - Cocktail Bar-Centrale

    Routes on orange-rose colored rock. It remains in the shade in the morning and is enchanting in the evening when it becomes lit up by the last sun rays.

    Crag C - Cocktail Bar-Dx

    The hardest and most demanding routes of the Cocktail Bar sector. In the shade till before noon.

    Crag D - Scoglio delle sirene

    This idyllic sector offers the easiest routes in the area. Ideal for families and childre

    Crag E - Il triangolo

    Located near sector D, this orange triangular crag offers short, but intense routes on magnificent rock.

    Crag F - Canà - Alto

    Located at the end of the Canà Valley, these cliffs cannot be missed due to their brilliant red color and their impressive long routes.

    Crag F - Canà - Basso

    Majestic wall that dominates the background of the Canà Valley. It has technical routes and a few multi-pitches. 

    Crag G - Zion Gate

    Sector located on the right at the end of the Canà Valley. The rock is very structured and colored by orange and black lines.

    Crag H - Nightclub

    Athletic crag with short routes and some overhanging roofs. Perfect for hot days as it’s in the shade until the late afternoon.

    Crag I - Sassina-Alto

    Small vertical wall with orange tones and technical moves on crimps. It remains in the shade until late afternoon.

     Crag J – Onde

    Two parallels walls that offer easy climb for those who just started climbing.

    Profile picture of Mariano Berri
    Author
    Mariano Berri 
    Update: November 23, 2023
    Highest point
    2,079 m
    Lowest point
    1,279 m
    Best time of year
    Jan
    Feb
    Mar
    Apr
    May
    Jun
    Jul
    Aug
    Sep
    Oct
    Nov
    Dec

    Track types

    Forested/wild trail 26.66%Path 72.35%Road 0.97%
    Forested/wild trail
    2.4 km
    Path
    6.4 km
    Road
    0.1 km
    Show elevation profile

    Safety information

    WARNING: Phone and internet service is very weak / non-existent in most areas between the lake and the aqueduct.

    Tips and suggestions

    WARNING: Phone and internet service is very weak/ nonexistent in most areas between the lake and the aqueduct.

    Start

    Fusio (Vacarisc)
    Coordinates:
    SwissGrid
    2'694'100E 1'144'321N
    DD
    46.443625, 8.663228
    DMS
    46°26'37.0"N 8°39'47.6"E
    UTM
    32T 474132 5143394
    w3w 
    ///testing.cooks.drumbeat

    Destination

    Lago di Mognola/Corte della Sassina/Canà

    Turn-by-turn directions

    Fusio (Vacarisc)-Corte dell'Ovi-Corte Mognòla-Lago di Mognòla-Corte della Sassina-Canà-Corte del Sasso-Corte di Mezzo-Vacarisc-Fusio

    Public transport

    Public-transport-friendly

    From Locarno railway station: bus 315 towards Cavergno, Paese. Alight at Bignasco, Posta and change to 334 to Fusio, Paese. Return from Fusio: Bus 334 to Bignasco, Posta. Take the bus 315 towards Locarno Stazione. Alight at Locarno station. Further information: www.sbb.ch 

    Coordinates

    SwissGrid
    2'694'100E 1'144'321N
    DD
    46.443625, 8.663228
    DMS
    46°26'37.0"N 8°39'47.6"E
    UTM
    32T 474132 5143394
    w3w 
    ///testing.cooks.drumbeat
    Get there by train, car, bike, or on foot!
    Distance
    8.9 km
    Duration
    1:30 h
    Ascent
    800 m
    Descent
    800 m
    Highest point
    2,079 m
    Lowest point
    1,279 m
    Public-transport-friendly Out and back Round trip Scenic Wall Slab Abseil Descending on foot

    Weather at the route's trailhead

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